Walkers: Coralie G, Diane D, Helen A, Irene H, Linda H, Marg F
Photos:
Report:
INTRODUCTION
Upon arrival at Darwin at 1:30am we stepped off the plane into
a sauna. The humidity was unreal. We were shuttled to the Darwin YHA (which is
not a recommended venue.) After a very brief sleep we were on the streets for
breakfast at the “Ducks Nuts.” A mild panic started to set in when we could not
locate a shop which had gas cylinders available. Apparently the Army was on
manoeuvres and the soldiers had been around and purchased the last cylinder. We
ended up, after a whole day of bus trips to shopping centres in and around
Darwin, back at the first shop to discover she had “JUST” opened a new box. Time
to relax.
Our tour guide (Irene) showed us the front and back of
Parliament House, the front and back of the Supreme Court and various other
buildings around the vicinity. The most interesting were the monuments to the
bombing of Darwin and the Cyclone, both of which caused incredible damage.
The evening meal was at the “Wisdom Bar”, downed with a few wines. Very relaxing.
The following morning saw us catch the 7:30a.m. Greyhound Bus
to Katherine then the shuttle bus out to the Gorge. I don’t want to bore you
with the details of all the muck ups we had with Nitmiluk Tours, just to say
“Never again”.
Linda
Day 1: Katherine Gorge to Biddlecombe Cascades(8 gruelling, hot excruciating kms)
“It is better to have tried and failed than never to have tried at all”. If possible could you all keep that statement in mind as you read day 1’s report?
We were all very excited about starting this journey so were awake quite early and down to the information centre to book in. Too early for the ferry across the river so coffees were ordered and packs were adjusted. (We had walked from the camping ground!) Down to the river and onto the ferry with all the day trippers who were very intrigued to hear what we were attempting. All of them very pleased they were staying on the boat. We were dropped off on the other side, waved the boat off, and started the climb up to Northern Rock holes. The walk was enjoyable, with dappled shade and an easy to follow track. The day started to heat up; plenty of fluids were required to ward off dehydration. We reached Northern Rock Holes and took advantage of this beautiful setting to remove the packs and enjoy a little rest and recuperation (even a swim). Packs back on and back to the track. The dappled shade seemed to be a little sparser and the heat was being turned up. We were still climbing, but nothing too steep. I started to struggle. I don’t remember much after this except that my pack seemed to be being transported by magic as I stumbled on, feeling nauseated and exhausted to Biddlecomb cascades.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank Coralie, Diane
and Helen (my magic pack transporters) and the Nitmiluk Rangers Norm, Magnus and
Paul who came to retrieve me the next day.
Irene.
Day 2:
Biddlecombe Cascades to Crystal Falls
We planned a very
early start to try and beat the heat so after rising at 5.30 we were ready to
walk at 7.00
It seemed totally unfair to leave Irene and Linda behind at Biddlecombe Cascades knowing how dedicated Irene had been with training for this walk and how much time and effort Linda had put into the planning of this trip. It made me so sad.
We said our goodbyes and
Marg, Coralie, Helen and myself continued on our way to Crystal Falls. Our first
obstacle was Crystal Creek where I slipped and was given an unscheduled spa bath
with the weight of the pack making it difficult to get upright with the cascade
belting down on me. I had forgotten my rule of always undoing the pack before
crossing a creek. Big mistake! not only was I drowned but also my camera
strapped to my chest strap However with a bit of swapping of memory cards etc we
were able to get photos of most of out trip and my camera dried out by day 4 so
I took lots of photos from then on.
We had unseasonably
hot weather on the first three days of our walk and today was a scorcher.
Walking on hot rocks and having big hot boulders surrounding us radiating the
heat made it tough going.
We followed the well
marked trail frequently stopping in shady spots to re-hydrate. Large boulders on
a prominent rocky out crop revealed Aboriginal rock paintings.
Views across the
valley to the west were spectacular. Passing a group of ancient twisted gnarled
eucalyptus was another treat. There was a marker at the halfway point but it
seemed ages before we finally came into the welcome sight of Crystal Falls Thank
you Linda for organizing a walking trip that I will never forget.
Diane.
Day 3: Crystal Falls to 17 Mile Falls
Another start to the day with wet feet!
Diane led us across the top of the falls following the route decided upon
the previous evening. There were no incidents to report, though the other
walkers at the campsite watched keenly from the bank in case assistance was
required. On the far bank we filled our water containers, emptied the water from
our boots and put on socks. Although these immediately became wet with water
from our boots, we found this to be a better option than soaking them in the
stream as we crossed.
A short time later we clambered down a steep, rocky side track for a spectacular view of Crystal Falls. From this vantage point the full majesty of the divided falls became apparent. Most of the morning was spent traversing the open woodlands of the ‘termite country’. In this landscape there are few shrubs between the trees but lots of tall, pale yellow spear grasses.
By second breakfast most of us were feeling the effect of
walking for the second day with damp feet and ‘hot spots’ and blisters had to be
taped to prevent further trouble. The monotony of the terrain was broken at the
8 km mark with a side trip to the Amphitheatre. As we descended into this cool
horseshoe shaped depression in the side of the escarpment, butterflies disturbed
by our passing, fluttered above us. At the bottom, a stream and a pocket of
rainforest said that this was the place for lunch even though the clock said it
was only 10.30 am. Afterwards we explored the walls and Helen was kept busy
digitally documenting amazing examples of Jawoyn Aboriginal paintings.
From here it was 3 km to the 17 Mile Creek campsite. The
highlight of this section was the spectacular view of the full drop of the
falls. This campsite was smaller than those of the previous nights but the
access to a small sandy beach and water was good. We were soon completing our
chores and swimming with the small fish. Unfortunately sand on rocks is a
slippery proposition and Marg and Diane both slid and grazed their forearms near
the water’s edge. The evening meal was enjoyed overlooking a section of the
cascading river.
Coralie
Day 4: 17 Mile Creek to Sandy camp Pool, 16.5km
By now, we were in a routine of waking early at 5.30am. The near-full moon had set leaving a black sky that was stubbed with a million bright stars. By torchlight we packed up ready to leave camp at first light. Quite an easy pack. The tent fly with pegs remained unpacked as the nights were balmy.
We dressed in fresh clothes that had been rinsed in the river. Breakfast of muesli again. I drank a mug of Gastrolyte to ward off dehydration. Walking in the early morning was delightful but, as the sun rose, so did the temperature.
The sky and rock cliffs glowed pink and orange as the sun rose. Soon we were walking out on the Savannah that was dotted with termite mounds, tall and erect like meerkats. The girls heard a distant roar. Wild buffalo and feral pigs roam the area. The advice was to retreat slowly or climb a tree to escape. What trees? An assortment of wispy natives wouldn’t offer much protection. And I was wearing a bright pink shirt (every day!). We didn’t encounter any beasts, though there were hoof and one pig print on the track.
On reaching the Edith River Crossing, Diane took the plunge to refresh. We ate lunch and paddled in the clear, warm water. Nearing the campsite later on we slopped our way through black bog. Reaching the riverbank masses of tall, purple and little, yellow water lilies were admired. Frogs were croaking. Wattle blossom floated along in the gently flowing water.
Sandy camp was delightful! Huge Paperbark trees and Pandani with razor-sharp leaves lined the bank. Apricot coloured Bladderwort grew among the rocks. Whilst backstroking across the pool, two Kingfishers swooped across the water in a flash of blue and black.
Another camper played a trick on his son when he did a running splash into the water to mimic a crocodile. Benign freshwater crocs do inhabit this water system. The dangerous saltwater reptiles do not venture this far inland apparently. Though there are Warning Signs to take great care.
The other group came over for a farewell chat after tea. Tomorrow they would bypass our stop at Sweetwater and finish at Edith Falls. They planned to tackle Larapinta on their next walk. We planned to sleep in tomorrow, until 6.30 am!
May I extend my appreciation to Linda for planning our trip in all its detail. Thank you Linda, Irene, Helen, Diane and Coralie for your friendly, supportive and enthusiastic company in the Nitmiluk/Leliyn National Park. Thank you Janice for sharing your adventure. You introduced us to a wonderful walking trail.
Marg
Day 5:
FINAL REPORT
I would like to thank Coralie, Diane, Helen and Marg for their
wonderful support and encouragement during a very stressful time for both Irene
and myself. Without them I cannot imagine what the outcome would have been.
When Irene and I were taken to Edith Falls by the rangers we
were able to relax and have an enjoyable time doing absolutely nothing, except
for the horrendous trip I had into Katherine (to buy some wine) with the
caretaker at the Falls, to him there was no such thing as a speed limit, nor
laws governing drinking and driving at the same time with one foot on the
console and one hand holding the stubby, but that’s another story.
I cannot stress the importance of Risk Management and please
don’t ever go walking without the limit of 4 people.
I certainly would recommend this walk to any group, it is
truly majestic and beautiful.
Linda.
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