Walkers: Mabel M, Michael J and Coralie G
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Report:
Our adventure began with spectacular fly over of the eastern and southern coasts of Tasmania in brilliant sunshine. The South Coast Track, Precipitous Bluff and the Ironbound Range were stand out features to those who had slogged over them in years gone by.
We landed at the tiny, gravel runway at Melaleuca in hot, humid conditions and after a short tour of the surrounds set off for New Harbour. The first 5 kilometres were easily covered; the valley floor had been board walked a few years back so mud was not a feature. That changed somewhat at the intersection of New Harbour and Cox Bight where we left the main track and headed off towards the Cape. However, because of the dry conditions, the bogs were not as difficult to negotiate as in previous seasons.
We were soon walking on the blindingly white sands of New Harbour, gazing out on the emerald green sea. It was warm enough for a swim and some of our dozen or so neighbours in camp that night took the plunge. We confined ourselves to a leisurely paddle as we explored the western end of the beach. Sea stars, limpets, anemones and a variety of shelled molluscs were to be found around the rocks lining the shore.
The next morning we took the well-contoured track over the headland to the next cove, Hidden Bay. Here we watched a family of plovers with 2 chicks scurrying about trying to hide in the sea weed clumps that lay on the sand. Rain set in after lunch and we decided to strike camp in the sheltered campsites beside the river.
Day 3 dawned with none of the rain of the previous twelve hours and we set off for Ketchem Bay in glorious sunshine. The views as we descended into Ketchem were stunning and many photographs were taken. After a knee deep river crossing and another climb and descent we arrived at Wilson Bight, the site of the last camp before South West Cape.
There are 3 potential campsites at Wilson Bight; we selected the choice, unoccupied middle ground behind the sand dunes. This was sheltered from the strengthening gales but sadly not from the driving rain. We awoke to wet patches around and under the tents. Michael’s ground sheet unfortunately trapped water and although he was quite dry inside, he had the sensation of sleeping in a water bed. Undeterred he set off with daypack and GPS to attempt Mt Karamu and the South West Cape. Mabel and I set about securing the campsite, moving tents and sand filling uneven surfaces of the tent sites. We had just called a halt for morning tea when Michael reappeared. The horizontal rain and gales of up to 120km/hr had prevented him from continuing beyond Mt Karamu.
Over the next two days we retraced our steps and returned to the main trail. Here we decided to spend a night at Cox Bight which is usually the first or last night on the South Coast Track. In the bushes not far from our camp, Mabel discovered a cache of goods. Later we found this was ready to be air lifted back to Hobart and belonged to the legendary ‘pancake man’. Most summers, he and a mate sit on the beach at Cox Bight and greet passing walkers with a lemon and sugar pancake and a cup of coffee. Unfortunately, we met him back at Melaleuca in walking, not pancake, mode.
Back at Melaleuca, after Michael had flown home, Mabel and I spent two delightful days winding down. Orange-bellied parrots were frequently spotted on the feed tray at the bird hide. We sometimes disturbed ground parrots on our meanderings over the button grass plains. Pygmy possums nested in the bird hide and aerodrome shed. Bennett’s wallabies and ring tailed possums played around the campground. We had conversations with the descendants of Deny King, an important pioneer in the Port Davy area who still spend time each year in Deny’s original home.
An unexpected boat trip in brooding weather to Bathurst Harbour along the Melaleuca River was another great thrill. As we flew back to Hobart, the pilot circled the harbour and we were able to glimpse the dreaded “Narrows”. This treacherous stretch of water often beset with tricky currents and choppy winds must be rowed 3 times by bushwalkers completing the Port Davy Track. We heard a number of harrowing stories in our time at Melaleuca and were quite glad to see it from a safe distance.
All too soon, we were back in Hobart and our south west adventure was over. Ah well, there’s always next year!
Coralie
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