Walkers: Jeff, Liz, Lothar, Mike, and friends (Rowan, Amy and Gordon, etc)
Photos: -
Lothar's: ABC panorama (.wmv, 2MB)
and pictures below (36-128KB each) -
Jeff's: Poon Hill views (8MB) images/jmA210421.AVI and pictures below (48-151KB each) -
Reports:
Actual Itinerary:
itinerary2007gp2actual.pdf
See also the Nepal 2000 report on this web site at
www.swtafe.vic.edu.au/walkers/Report00/Nepal2000/report.htm
Trip gear, etc: tripprep2007.pdf
.....waiting on contributions from participants......
Jeff's:
For me, the trip to Nepal was a revisit of my very enjoyable
trip in 1980, or 27 years ago!! Of course, a lot of things have changed over
that time, but surprisingly, many things hadn’t.
Nepal is a poor country and continual effective “civil war” between the
government and the Maoists over the last 10 years has either rendered the
infrastructure ineffective, or else it is ineffective anyway. Despite living and
working in Asia (Hong Kong), I was surprised at how poor and undeveloped the
country was. Plus the warm and friendly people I remembered from almost 30 years
ago were quickly fading as the scramble for rupees and making a living produced
quite a mercenary class of shopkeepers, merchants, beggars, touts, etc. But this
was pretty much confined to Kathmandu, once we got out of this city, the people
improved, as well as the pollution levels.
Pokhara was an enjoyable city, not as hectic at the Thamel area of Kathmandu
that we stayed in on arrival, but being surrounded by mountains and clearer
skies improved the feeling of the place.
Despite our guide not meeting us at the airport, we managed to find a hotel,
then a guide and porters, plus book our tickets for the Jomsom flight the next
morning – amazing. Then we were really off on our adventure.
Liz, Mike, Lothar and I walked up the valley by ourselves to Kagbeni, to one of
our favourite guest houses of the whole trip. Wonderful apple crumble, as it is
apple orchard country. Our guide, Dipendra, and two porters, Till and Nima,
joined us very late the first night, having travelled overland while we enjoyed
the luxury of flight. We then started our trek proper, with a few days walk up
to Muktinath on the way to the Thorung La pass. We reached 4100m as part of our
acclimatization, with sleep problems at night and for me, nausea in the morning.
Never mind, we then set off down the valley again, through Jomsom and onto
Marpha. Lots of marihuana growing wild by the side of the road. And it was a
road, with jeeps, trucks, tractors and lots of donkey trains, carrying goods up
and down the valley.
In a couple of days, we had our first rest day at Tatopani, where we enjoyed the
hot springs and finally caught up with the O’Briens (Ami, Rowan and Gordon), who
walked over the Thorung La pass the day we were in Muktinath. They were all
well, but looking forward to finishing their walk, after more than 2 weeks of
solid work.
We then headed up the Annapurna valley to Poon Hill, with the O’Briens heading
off to Pokhara and, as Ami said, a real holiday! The views of Machhapuchre
(‘fishtail’ mountain) grew better and better as we walked up the valley over the
next 4 days. We finally reached Annapurna Base Camp at 4,200m, our highest point
of the trek. The mountains were superb – ringed right around us and we enjoyed
clear early morning skies as we watching the sun rise over the range, plus an
amazing clear night with a full moon, showing the majestic mountains to their
very best. It burnt into our eyes and memories.
After that, the trek was downhill for a few days, as we walked our way out of
the Annapurna Conservation Zone (no water or beer bottles allowed). We were
looking forward to the end, after 21 days of walking in which we probably
covered about 200 km. Not bad for the ‘oldies’ – average age 60 years old. Mike
did very well, considering his 6-way bypass operations just 2 years ago; he was
the fittest and best walker in the group.
We then spent a few days in Pokhara, with Liz and Mike going onto the Chitwan
National Park, while Lothar and I caught a bus back to Kathmandu. A few days
shopping back in the turmoil and dust of Thamel, desperate searches for
souvenirs for loved ones back home, and then flying out to our previous lives.
It was a very rewarding experience to spend 3 full weeks walking amongst the
hills and people of Nepal in such a beautiful region as the Annapurna ranges.
Despite the tendency of the locals to ‘rip you off’ when they have half a
chance, the cost of traveling is very low, with food and accommodation costs
laughable by Australian standards. I think my costs were about A$15 a day for
the guides/porters, plus the same for room and food on the trek. Dearer in
Pokhara and Kathmandu of course, but it was a low cost holiday by any standards.
I am definitely going back again, having already booked my flight for a 15 day
walk to Everest Base Camp. I really look forward to it.
Lothar's:
Where did we go?
The Jomsom Trek to Tatopani and then via Ghorepani/Poon Hill, Tadapani and
Chhomrong to the Annapurna Sanctuary. The idea was to avoid the high 5418m
Thorung La pass. We flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara and then from Pokhara to
Jomsom. Our itinerary was as per the attached document above. After the trek, 2
of us went to Chitwan National Park while the other two returned to Kathmandu by
tourist bus.
What were the highlights?
It's not often that you get a chance to walk every day for 21 days - I loved it.
Especially when someone else is carrying the bulk of your gear! Nepal is so
different to Australia that everything about it is a marvel. As last time, the
people on the trek - both local and fellow travellers - were fantastic, and the
lodges and food were excellent. We also ventured off the main thoroughfare on a
couple of occasions, visiting hidden villages - excellent! We met up with 3
other groups from South West Victoria and joined in a 60th birthday celebration
with the Portland crowd. In Thamel/Kathmandu we found a lovely quiet place for
breakfast, lunch, happy hour, and dinner: Delima Garden (accessed via a corridor
next to the Prince Guest House). We enjoyed visiting Boudhhanath Stupa and
Bhaktapur, and exploring the streets around Asan (south of Thamel).
What were the worst bits?
Pollution, car horns & touts in Thamel/Kathmandu. Everyone trying to rip you off
- Hotels, taxis, shops, etc - so you have to know the going rate for lots of
things and do a fair bit of shopping around. Chest infections (Jeff & Lothar),
and still a bit of a struggle at altitude and on some of the steep bits! When we
first got to Pokhara our guide didn't show up. So within an hour the Manager at
our hotel (Karki Guest House) had arranged our guide, 2 porters, and flights to
Jomsom. There is now a 4WD track that goes from Muktinath all the way back to
Beni - this cuts out some of the romance of the Jomsom trek.
What were the expenses like?
During the trek an Australian dollar was worth about 55 Rupees, and a US dollar
about 60 Rupees. We budgeted on less than $50/day during the trek. Daily costs
on the trek ranged from 600 - 1200 Rupees per day for all food and
accommodation. Porters cost us an extra 700R/day and our guide 1100R/day. We had
2 porters and 1 guide between the 4 of us.
Prices were fixed at the lodges and increased the higher up you went in
altitude. You got a great selection of food and drinks. If you purchased the
local "Dal/Dhal Bhat" (lentil soup, rice, curried vegies, some greens) you would
usually get seconds. From the lodges you could buy bottled water (20-150R/litre
bottle), "boiled & filtered" water (that you would treat with iodine, etc), or
purchase Ozone
treated water in selected villages. On cold nights some of the lodges put
red hot coals or kero heaters under the tables to keep the feet warm - this
service cost about 30-50Rs/person.
It cost us 2000Rs in Kathmandu for the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. We
also paid 100-200R each to the Maoists for their compulsory "donation". Internal
flights cost us about US$60-70 each.
What was a typical day like?
Out of bed at about 6-7am. Packed and had breakfast (such as porridge or muesli,
eggs, pancake, tea/coffee). Started trekking 7-9am. Stopped once or twice for a
cuppa or soup. Lunch was usually 12-2pm. We mostly finished our walks by mid
afternoon or earlier. We'd then check into a lodge, have (solar heated or gas
powered) showers at lower altitudes (and a bucket of water at high altitudes),
changed & washed some clothes, chatted with fellow trekkers, ordered dinner at
about 4-5pm, chatted & had drinks, dinner at about 6-7pm, and off to bed by
about 7-8pm (yes - very early!).
Any specific advice?
The Annapurna Sanctuary area was very busy and large trekking groups sent
porters/Sherpas ahead to book lodges. At ABC it's a bottle neck - we had 2
porters sharing a single bed in our room and another slept amongst the rafters.
Some places had no room left and so many independent travellers couldn't get
accommodation. Even some of the large groups ended up having to sleep on benches
and tables in dining rooms. I'd recommend anyone going on the Sanctuary trek to
take a tent and sleeping mat - just in case! Also, take note of your
government's travel advice (eg http://www.smarttraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Nepal)
and take plenty of medications - including antibiotics for chest infections,
etc. Also take note of the advice in relevant travel books.
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